FENNEL AND CHEESE QUICHE
For the in-betweens: An Alpine wonder for long lazy lunches, from Meike Peters' book, Noon.
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Hello, hello!
I hope you have had a wonderful, joy-filled week of family and food, memory-making, and, hopefully, a little rest.
First, a huge welcome to new subscribers! I’m honored to be among Substack’s Featured Publications this week, bringing many new faces here. I’m thrilled to have you, and I hope you’ll enjoy the recipes, stories, photos, travel guides, and strategies coming your way in 2024!
In the meantime, happy free pass week to all—the week between Christmas and New Year’s, which, according to the many memes circulating the last few days —you can do anything you want because nothing (calories, grievances, etc) counts! Phew.
In the days between Christmas and New Year, I’m done with meats and even seafood—my favorite—done with formal meals and tending to the manners and dishes that go with them. What I want now is what I like most of the winter—a big, hearty lunch that can hold us through an evening movie or fireside games.
I’ve written about how the mid-day meal is important for our family. Growing up, there was Sunday dinner (lunch) and a simpler supper at my grandmother’s house, and I always felt very connected to that way of eating. In Andras’ family— and per Hungarian proverb—it’s common to eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a peasant, and dinner like a pauper. There’s never much more than sliced bread, cheese, or fresh peppers in the evening at his parent’s house, so we learned to make lunchtime count.
Luxuriating over a mid-day meal is so rewarding, but never more than in winter when there’s a puzzle to do or a movie waiting. So when Meike Peters’s new tome, Noon, arrived on my desk this fall, I bookmarked a few pages, including this quiche (pictured), for precisely this week.
After the cookies and the prime rib and Yorkshire pudding the last few days (what was on your holiday menu? Leave me a comment; I’m curious!), I’ve felt the call to this cheese souffle or Meike’s Fennel and Alpine Cheese Cheese, plus big salads with sharp mustard vinaigrette, red wine, and a low hum in the kitchen—nothing requiring much effort. You can make a day in advance or over a lazy morning and then shut down the kitchen for the day.
In Noon, Meike writes:
“My basic quiche recipe has never changed—it’s as reliable as a good old friend—but the fillings vary. Focusing on the seasons and featuring different produce keeps it exciting and leads to the most satisfying results. Fennel offers subtle sweetness and pairs well with an aromatic hard Alpine cheese, such as Raclette or Gruyère, which keeps the quiche hearty and smoothly melts into the silky egg-cream filling.”
For those new here, this recipe is a teaser into my enthusiasm for Alpine cooking and village life. I’m convinced we can imagine it for ourselves, no matter where we live, with the right mindset and a few simple ingredients. The recipe is below. I hope you can end the year in whatever frame of mind feels right to you.
As for me and my crew, if I squint my eyes, our view is these mountains, and lunch is served in the quiet village below.
xx
Sarah
FENNEL AND ALPINE CHEESE QUICHE
Adapted from Noon: Simple Recipes for Scrumptious Midday Meals and More by Meike Peters, © 2023.
I love a good quiche. The pastry must be thin and flaky, buttery but light, and the filling shouldn’t be too high. It’s about finding the right base ratio to filling so that the quiche is packed with potent flavors yet still allowing enough space for the short-crust pastry to shine through.
SERVES 3 T O 4
FOR THE PASTRY
2 cups (260 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (130 g) unsalted butter, cold
1 large egg
FOR THE FILLING
Olive oil, for sautéing
1 (14-ounce / 400 g) fennel bulb, cut in half lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced lengthwise
Fine sea salt
Finely ground pepper
3 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
½ cup (120 g) sour cream or crème fraîche
Nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
3 ounces (85 g) Raclette, Gruyère, Appenzeller, or any aromatic cheese that melts well, coarsely grated
Make the Crust: Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and use a knife to cut it into the flour until just small pieces are left. Quickly rub the butter into the flour with your fingers until combined. Add the egg and mix on low just until the dough comes together. Form the dough into a thick disc, wrap it in plastic wrap, and freeze for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Make the filling: heat a splash of olive oil in a large, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the fennel and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 7 minutes or until golden and al dente. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let it cool for at least 10 minutes.
Roll the dough: On a clean work surface, place the dough between 2 sheets of parchment paper and use a rolling pin to roll it out into a round or an oval, large enough to line the bottom and sides of a round or an oval-shaped 8 x 12-inch (20 x 30 cm) baking dish. Fit the dough into the baking dish, pushing it into the dish, especially along the edges. Use a fork to prick the dough all over. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden. If the dough bubbles up, push it down with a fork.
Remove the quiche dish from the oven and reduce the heat to 350°F (180°C). Whisk together the eggs, heavy cream, sour cream, ¾ teaspoon of salt, and generous amounts of pepper and nutmeg in a medium bowl.
Arrange the fennel on top of the prebaked pastry, layer the cheese on top, and pour the egg mixture over the fennel and cheese. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the top is golden and firm and the pastry is crispy. Let the quiche cool for at least 10 minutes; Enjoy it warm or cold.
Recipe and Photo from Noon: Simple Recipes for Scrumptious Midday Meals and More by Meike Peters, © 2023 (Chronicle Books). Landscape photos are credited in the caption.
Currently awaiting my Bacon & Leek Quiche is set and cool so that we can enjoy a breakfast for dinner. This one looks incredible as well and love the idea for quiche's for lunch too!
I just joined and I already know that I will love your posts. Thanks for the recipe. I love fennel. I have all of the ingredients except the cream which I will pickup. I can’t wait to try this. Happy New Year!